Frequently asked questions

Not necessarily. A pump only produces so much pressure, so spreading it across a very high jet count can leave each individual jet feeling weak. What matters more is how the jets are grouped and targeted — a well-placed bank across the shoulders and lower back does more for you than a hundred small jets scattered around the shell. Tell us where you carry your tension and we'll point you at the models that suit.

Each pump drives a set of jets. A single-pump spa runs its jets in one zone; two and three pump models can drive more jets at full pressure at the same time, which matters in larger tubs where several people are using the seats at once. More pumps also means more electrical demand, so it goes hand in hand with the supply you have available.

Pre-loved is the sensible route if you want considerably more spa for your budget. Every pre-loved tub we sell is stripped down, inspected, deep-cleaned and serviced by our own engineers before it goes out, and it comes with a 90-day electrical warranty. New spas come with a full year, the latest insulation and the current model features. Both are delivered and installed the same way.

Empty, a typical domestic spa is a few hundred kilograms and can be manoeuvred by our delivery team. Filled, with people in it, you are looking at something in the region of a tonne and a half. That is why the base matters so much — see the question below on what to stand it on.

The shell is moulded acrylic over a reinforced backing, which is what gives it the smooth finish and the strength to hold that much water. The cabinet around it is a weatherproof composite that does not need the annual treatment a timber surround would.

We do. A swim spa gives you a current to swim against for exercise alongside a seated area to relax in afterwards, so it does the job of a pool and a hot tub in one footprint. They are larger and heavier than a standard spa, so access and base preparation need more thought — talk to us early and we will walk you through it.

New spas come with a one year electrical warranty. Pre-loved spas come with 90 days, on top of the full inspection and service every one of them gets before delivery. We also offer extended protection plans if you would rather have longer cover — you can add one when you order, or ask us about it any time.

Yes. You can secure a pre-loved hot tub with a £99 deposit and settle the balance 48 hours before delivery. If you would rather pay in full up front you can do that too. Give us a call or drop us a message and we will set it up.

Yes, on both new and pre-loved spas. It lets you spread the cost rather than paying everything at once, and decisions are usually quick. Have a look at our finance page for what is available, or ask us and we will talk you through the options.

A deposit will hold a spa while you get the base laid or the electrics sorted. If you need to hold it for an unusually long stretch, just talk to us — we would rather agree something sensible with you than have you lose the tub you wanted.

You will get a confirmation straight away with your order reference, which you can use to follow progress on our order tracking page. Our team will then be in touch to agree a delivery date and to check access and electrics before the day itself.

Yes — our Scunthorpe showroom is open by appointment so you get someone's full attention rather than competing with a busy shop floor. Book a slot and we will have the models you are interested in ready to look at.

We deliver and install across the UK mainland using our own team rather than a third-party courier, which is why we can position the spa and commission it properly rather than leaving it on your drive. If you are somewhere remote or off the mainland, ask us and we will tell you honestly what is possible.

The team will call ahead so you know roughly when to expect them. They will bring the spa through to the spot you have prepared, position it, connect it to the supply you have had fitted, fill and test it, and then run through the controls and water care with you before they leave. Exact arrival times are difficult to promise because access varies job to job, but you will not be left guessing.

As a rule of thumb you want the gap the tub has to pass through to be comfortably wider than the spa is deep, plus room for the team to walk it round corners. Measure your tightest point — usually a side gate or an alleyway — and send us the figure along with a photo. We would far rather work this out with you beforehand than find a problem on the day.

It happens more often than you would think, and it is usually solvable with a crane lift over the house. Tell us early and we will help you work out whether that is needed and what it involves before you commit to anything.

Something flat, level and solid enough to take the weight of the spa, the water and everyone in it. A reinforced concrete base is the usual answer; a well-built decked area can work if it has been designed for the load. Avoid anything that can settle or shift, because an unevenly supported shell is asking for trouble.

Close enough to the house that you will actually use it on a cold night, near your power supply, and with a little space around the sides so panels can come off for servicing. Think about drainage for when you empty it, and about shelter — a spot that catches the worst of the wind will cost you more to heat.

It can, but think it through first. Everything that might ever need repairing lives behind the side panels, so a spa that has been boxed in permanently is expensive to work on. If you want the sunken look, leave a removable section on every side.

If the spa is in stock it is usually a matter of days once your base and electrics are ready. If it is coming in on a production run it will be longer, and we will give you a realistic date rather than an optimistic one. Ask us about the specific model you are looking at.

It is about how much you can run at once. A 13 amp spa plugs into a suitable outdoor socket and shares its power between heating and jets, so it heats a little slower while the jets are running flat out. A 32 amp spa is wired in properly by an electrician and has the headroom to heat and run everything together. If you use your tub in the depths of winter, 32 amp is worth the wiring.

The supply needs to be in place and tested before we arrive, because our team connects to it on the day rather than installing it. For a 13 amp spa that means a suitable weatherproof outdoor socket on its own protected circuit. For 32 amp it means a dedicated supply run out to the spa position by a qualified electrician. If you are unsure which you need, ask us before you book the sparky.

A 13 amp spa comes with its own lead ready to plug in. A 32 amp spa is hard-wired, so the cable is part of the supply your electrician installs — its length and route depend on where your consumer unit is in relation to the tub.

No. A hot tub draws heavily for hours at a time and an extension lead is not built for that — it is a genuine fire risk and it will invalidate your warranty. Have a proper outdoor socket fitted on its own circuit instead.

It depends on three things: how well the spa is insulated, how hot you keep it, and what you pay per unit of electricity. A modern, well-insulated spa kept at temperature costs far less than most people expect, because it is topping the heat up rather than heating from cold. Over twenty of our spas include a free 5kW air source heat pump, which cuts heating costs by up to 75% against a standard heater — if running costs are your main concern, start with those.

No — leave it running at temperature. Heating a full spa from cold uses far more energy than holding it where it is, and it takes hours, so switching it off between soaks costs you money and means it is never ready when you fancy it. Drop the temperature a couple of degrees if you are away for a while.

From cold, expect the best part of a day rather than a couple of hours — the exact figure depends on the model, the supply and how cold the water going in is. That is a one-off when you first fill it or after a water change, which is another reason to leave it at temperature the rest of the time.

With the chemistry kept in order, around every three months is normal. Heavy use shortens it and light use stretches it. The signs it is due are water that will not hold its balance and foaming that will not clear.

You need a sanitiser of some kind — warm water is exactly what bacteria like, so it is not optional. Chlorine is the common choice and bromine is a gentler alternative. There are mineral systems that let you use noticeably less of either, which is worth looking at if you find chlorine harsh on your skin. We will show you the routine on handover; it takes a couple of minutes a week.

Rinse them through with a hose every few weeks to clear out the debris, give them a proper soak with a filter cleaner periodically, and replace them once a year or so. Clogged filters make the pumps work harder and the water harder to balance, and they are the single most common cause of the problems we get called out to.

Fill it through the filter housing with an ordinary garden hose to avoid airlocks in the pipework. To drain, connect a hose to the drain valve and run it somewhere the water can go safely — bear in mind you are emptying well over a thousand litres, so not onto a neighbour's border.

From us — we stock filters for the spas we sell along with the chemicals and accessories to go with them. Have a look in the accessories section, or send us your model and we will tell you exactly which filter you need.

Yes. Our engineers service, repair and relocate hot tubs regardless of where they came from. Have a look at our services section or get in touch with the make and model and a description of the problem.